How long is a pitch in climbing reddit belay. Currently, I own shoes, a chalk bag, a harness, and an ATC. Factor in the descent as well, is it a walk off or is it rappel back down. the rope tug system helps with this. If you climb full ropelengths I would suggest using two ropes that the leader clips to each protection (at least if it’s a traversing pitch). The Process: -Leader leads a pitch and builds a belay. I've swapped leads on two multipitch (6p & 10p) climbs as a party of 3 and could use some tips on efficiency and keeping the ropes from tangling. Put them on belay asap so they can start to clean. Worse than a grigri as a progress capture for ascending a fixed line or as a grillion. In multi-pitch trad you probably don't have much choice as the belayer will be tied to the anchor after the 1st pitch. When you get to the top of a pitch, you need to build an anchor, go into it direct, call out to your partner that you are off belay, pull up the extra rope, set up the belay from above and let your partner know you are on belay. I swapped leads for every other pitch the first time, the second time we lead in blocks I am a competent gym rock climber (top rope 12. Make sure you bring: - Two cordelettes/ long slings - At least six spare screwgates - Two belay devices If the descent from your route involves abseiling, make sure to bring ATC style I started by climbing up the first pitch, then continuing. Hi all. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. Some of us have been super obsessed and absorbing everything we can about climbing, some have been more casual, one is still struggling to remember the belay/climbing commands and forgets they have legs. Two climbers climbing on one rope is not a great idea as long as it’s not easy/alpine climbing. Ran out of slings? Gotta know how to build one with my rope. Leader had a belay on one rope and tagged the second rope. A soft catch is difficult unless you rig a chariot belay*. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. When belaying the follower I use an ATC/tuber in guide mode, when he reaches the belay station, he clips himself in (with a long quickdraw or whatever) and I have a fancy, quick way of transitioning the ATC from a guide mode to something depictued in picture 7 in the link while the other climber steals the rest of the gear from my harness. I’ve gone up on a climb and forgot to grab my anchor material, gotta build out of slings if I’m leading every pitch. When swinging leads on a multi-pitch route, the belay transitions are often the biggest time suck. Each pitch is a section of the climb that is typically no longer than the length of the climbing rope, which is usually around 50 to 70 meters. Aug 26, 2023 · Multi-pitch climbing, in essence, is a method where climbers ascend a route in multiple stages or ‘pitches’. Make sure you bring: - Two cordelettes/ long slings - At least six screwgates - Two belay devices If the descent from your route involves abseiling, make sure to bring ATC style belay devices and prusik cords. Make sure you pick up the latest edition of Climbing Anchors. I'm not sure what you're looking for as an "engineering" explanation, though. Use a guide style autoblock belay device for belaying the second so you can drink and eat while you belay them up if needed. I just joined a climbing gym and looking for advice on finding belay partners. hanging off of his/her harness. then in my experience for multipitch climbing you need another grade of margin for every crux pitch. Both times we climbed in parallel with two followers climbing at the same time on single ropes. If you are climbing in blocks, your second can just attach under your biners. Their first lead belay should not be 500 feet off the ground. Even if you decide to stick to single pitch stuff, it's far easier to thread the rope through the rings Almost a 100lb difference. It’s not for hard rock climbs. I'll be using it everywhere from ice climbing single pitch to mountaineering… 17 votes, 17 comments. Also, you might find this video pretty helpful. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. e. 11's confidently and want to branch into lower grade multipitch climbs. Looking over the details at Mountain Project, it looks like there is one semi hanging belay. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows nonverbal comm is important for multi-pitch (rope tug system) long alpine routes w/o beta will necessitate keeping an eye on how much rope is left. I'm now able to lead 5. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. When belaying from above, especially in a multi-pitch situation, you do not want to be in the system. ” Whether you’re scaling a towering mountain or a craggy cliff, understanding what a pitch is and how far it extends is essential for both safety and strategy. I was in a college climbing club so finding belay partners wasn't a problem. All the basics in one place to help you transition from single-pitch to multi-pitch routes. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Rope length is not the only factor in determining the length of a pitch, other factors include rope drag (how much the route moves left and right) and the availability of belay stations. clipped on the There are a LOT of different ways to set up a multi pitch belay and it is absolutely worth knowing how to do several different kinds. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). When I'm belying from above on a pitch and can't hear my climber, then when I'm switching from climbing to belaying, I put the climber on immediately, and tug the rope through the gri/atc. From the top of the pitch after leading, off the anchor with an ATC in guide mode. The home of Climbing on reddit. i always have an atc guide as a backup though. Use a hydration pack so you can take quick drinks while belaying etc. Jul 6, 2023 · Multi-pitch climbing, sending routes that are longer than just a single rope length, is one of the most fulfilling aspects of rock climbing. Then again, I have been told that I am often too blunt. Not to say that this is "the right way". When the follower gets to the belay, clove into the anchor, grab all remaining gear from the belayer while you have the now follower switch the belay to his harness. Jun 27, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Is there any truth to this? Hi all, Been belay jacket shopping for a while, looking for some input. What's the most ppl u could belay at once on a multipitch? Climbing lead is also different, you might want to work on endurance and footwork, you are holding your entire weight for the climb unlike top rope and you have to stop to place protection, precise moves will help prevent you from burning out. And yes we are scared of falling. Feb 23, 2016 · Pitches nowadays are anywhere from 100' to 180' and beyond. Carrying two singles (which it sounds like you're doing?) means a big weight penalty. Unlike single-pitch climbing, where you’re limited by the length of your rope (maybe 100 feet or so, at most), a multi-pitch climber can ascend walls that are many hundreds, and even thousands, of feet tall. Undo the clove, clip the highest piece to avoid a fall directly on the belayers harness, and start climbing. They have no idea what is happening above them. Feb 19, 2025 · Rock climbing is an exhilarating sport that attracts adventurers of all levels, from beginners to seasoned experts. I will say, I do think it's funny when I see someone climbing at the gym with 2 belay devices, belay gloves, PAS, etc. It's fuzzy, but my estimate here would be 6 total grades of margin, or a full french number grade. Once I get to the 2 bolts at the top of the first pitch: I need to anchor in. Food and Water If your multi-pitch is likely to take more than a few hours, consider bringing food and water to Jul 16, 2014 · Belay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing. I don't have anyone to teach me and I was hoping I could get some advice on how to learn techniques like the top down belay and setting up multipitch anchor stations, including Multi pitch is all about having your systems dialed. While a ground belay may not involve the inherent dangers—such as anchor failure—associated with multi-pitch belays, a ground belay has dangers all its own. Modern climbing ropes are typically 60–70 metres (200–230 ft) in length, which sets the theoretical maximum length of a 'pitch', however, other factors mean that the average pitch on a multi-pitch route is circa 30–40 metres (98–131 ft) in length. if your leader is climbing along and passes a nice belay ledge in hopes of reaching the next one 30' feet up, he will want to know if he has enough rope or not. More even rhythm for climbing/belaying and you get less cold. The rule of thumb for single pitch climbing is that your onsight and redpoint are typically separated by 4 grades. I taught a couple to multipitch (big dude, tiny lady) and they did great with the technique. Frankly, just tell him you do not feel safe belaying, both for his sake and yours and that he should find another belayer. Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. I just got rid of this harness because it was painful after sitting in hanging belays on long multi pitch days. But. As long as you know how to bail from a single pitch route, you can learn the multi-pitch systems and rope management without being in much extra danger. But really, if you have a solid single pitch background, it's not complicated. This is all mostly personal preference IMO. As the second, start breaking down the anchor early provided you can do so safely. Nov 15, 2024 · Multi-pitch climbing takes the adventure to new heights, literally! Unlike single-pitch climbs, multi-pitch routes require you to ascend multiple sections of rock, stopping at belay stations along the way. . As long as you are within 1 ropelength of the ground, you can always fix your rope and get down. -The designated middleman takes the climbing rope and clips a clove hitch to an anti-crossloading biner on his belay loop. Aug 26, 2023 · Although the length of a climbing rope will vary from one party to another, the mechanics are the same; one pitch is equal to one rope length. The length of a pitch can vary depending on the terrain, but is typically around 30m. Never climbed indoors, all outdoors (most TR, TR and lead belaying, few multi-pitch). And the two gear loops in the front just puts gear in the way when you are climbing. People will do what they want, but this seems a lil risky to me Jan 20, 2022 · Always belay standing, with two hands on the rope, eyes on the climber. the atc-guide is pretty piss poor at top belay in autoblock mode so i prefer the alpine smart. It's sort of situation dependent which one is better. 73 votes, 36 comments. I was belaying from a stance at the end of the first pitch, cooling my feet, shoes off. Pitches nowadays are anywhere from 100' to 180' and beyond. -Leader pulls up only a few feet of slack and puts the rope on belay. Meaning only one climbs at a time and the other waits at the belay. From the bottom of the pitch and my partner is leading, off my harness. I think the grigri for single pitch sport climbing is a lot more enjoyable to use than any other belay device. In this article, we will explore the Jul 16, 2025 · Multi-pitch climbing offers a thrilling adventure for climbers, involving multiple stages of ascent and requiring technical skills, teamwork, and proper gear preparation. 2 fayettevillainjd parameters* serious question: have you ever climbed a multipitch route? These questions might seem pretty important if you are an avid single pitch climber, but when actually climbing a multipitch route, all that stuff seems wholly insignificant unless it is your main style of climbing. I’m looking to do some long multipitch alpine climbs this summer. Jun 30, 2018 · Belaying off the harness is marginally easier to set up, less comfortable depending on stance but the second can pretty much take off and start leading the next pitch. Might as well invest in a slightly more expensive guide-style device (BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Grivel Belay Master Pro, etc. I hope you try out a 3-4 pitch climb with your friends first. The force is all on you and your belay device and the anchors don’t get worn out as much when compared to lowering. I've already researched it a bit, but I'd just like one more point of reference. Time how long it takes to do the whole climb, just the pitches and then extrapolate it out to see if you can finish a 12-14 pitch climb. Start below your limit on something with good belay ledges, and have fun. It's all up to personal opinion as far as that goes. I use a smart alpine as the main belay device on multis and it allows you to use the guide features when top belaying. Dec 28, 2022 · In 1980 my college roommate, Mark Herndon, fell 100 feet on a two-pitch route. Same as a grigri for toprope belaying and belaying from above. So: Climb the first pitch like a regular sport climb. 1. You can plan block changes at the best ledges, as hanging transitions always suck more and are slower. Nov 30, 2022 · A pitch in climbing is a section of the route that is between two belay stations. A group of us are thinking about climbing a 4 pitch sport route in a few weeks. Easier to stay in the same headspace for one long chunk of time instead of flipping in and out of it. Long story short, this is a great situation for a fixed point lead belay. I've research the many anchors that can be done It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty large falls to know how that felt. It is considered single pitch terrain when a single length of rope is enough to complete the climb. What kind of training (besides climbing) do people do to prepare? I’m a fairly decent hiker with good cardio endurance, and gym climb a couple times a week. I've been climbing for about 8 months now, taught myself how to sport climb outdoors after about 3 months with a friend. Experienced single pitch leaders can lose their shit on their first multi pitch. My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. May 20, 2022 · But the thing about climbing quickly is that it’s not necessarily about the climbing —it’s more about doing everything else efficiently. Mark had just cruised the second-pitch crux, a near-holdless paddle up granite glass, and was nearing the end of a 50-foot runout above the route’s only lead bolt when he slipped. On long multi-pitches, it's wise to bring the following equipment in addition to everything you would normally take on a single pitch. a, lead 10. I know everyone always says work on your feet, but it is probably the universal truth of climbing. Beyond belay+anchor+rap+PAS materials, the only time I'm bringing anything else is on a 4+ pitch route (water bottle clipped to my harness, plus a little food in the follower's pack if it's >=200m long), or an alpine trad route (add a tiny multi-knife and 20' of cord in the follower's pack). Try the BD Long Haul instead. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. If I am belaying a follower, and I am going to lead the next pitch, I'll have this set up before they arrive at the anchor so it's a quick changeover. If the follower is hurt or falls and is unable to continue up or get back on the rock and you have to help them, you will have to escape the system. For a single pitch climbs, the route can be completed in just one pitch, which is belayed from the ground. 3 tugs for everything, and no wussy A bunch of friends and I started getting into (indoor)climbing around the same time, a few months ago. the grigri is nice and all but i never bring it up with me. Blocks are absolutely more efficient. 419 votes, 17 comments. You should also add in basic rock rescue skills. Aug 30, 2021 · What is pitch in rock climbing? A pitch is a steep section of rock that requires a rope between two belays—or between the belay and an anchor. I always clove hitch myself into the anchor with the rope once it's built, and once I begin belaying the 2nd often I'll need to adjust the length to be more comfortable, check out the next pitch, get a better angle for pictures, etc. Belaying off the harness is marginally easier to set up, less comfortable depending on stance but the second can pretty much take off and start leading the next pitch. Familiarize yourself with what a two bolt belay looks like, and how to belay off the anchor if needed. Escaping the belay, ascending the rope, and assisted rappels/lowers of an injured partner are all valuable skills that aren't too complicated. Rappelling involves cleaning the anchor then using a personal belay device (commonly an ATC, grigri or other) to rappel/abseil back down to the base of the climb. Recently saw a guy climbing at the gym with another pair of shoes clipped to his harness. Yes I have, and I wouldn't be doing this ever unless forced to while belaying someone, especially on a single pitch climb. You can add some dynamics if you wear gloves and are very skilled with a non locking belay device. To everyone saying have you done multi-pitch on before. Many climbers never leave the comfort of the ground to belay. The term “pitch” is used to describe a route length that can be climbed and protected with an average length rope of 60-70 meters. Also if you are in an area that has loose rock you had better learn how to escape the belay, just in case. I understand that I should get an atc guide or grigri, but what do I need in terms of external gear (rope, locking biners, quickdraws, prusik, etc) to start climbing multipitch? I do have friends who climb outdoors Better for lead belay. ) now so that you don't buy the Pilot or XP, and when you decide to do multi pitch (or climb with twin/half ropes), you have to then purchase a second device. But multi-pitching isn’t just for uber Hey guys I've been told that you can not multi pitch with a gri gri and only an atc type belay device. The goal is to have your team in synch, with both climbers working together to get the leader moving. Depending on the length and overall timing, if there's a single hard pitch, you could belay the followers one at a time for just that pitch and belay them simultaneously in guide mode for the other pitches. See for the basic gist of it. For climbers looking to explore bigger walls and longer routes, multi-pitch climbing is the next exciting challeng Aug 28, 2021 · The complete beginner's guide to multi-pitch climbing. IOW, not a GriGri. I will never pressure my climbing partners to lead if they don't want to, but I will expect my partners to know what to do if I, as the leader, fall and am injured. As mentioned by someone else this crag is a little chossy, what if a non trivial rock came down? A buddy is gonna do some easy multi-pitch sport climbing with me this weekend and I would like to have an idea of the steps involved. it's extra work, but it means at no point is either person completely off belay. Lead climbing is simple, it's the belaying that actually is the dangerous/tough part. One of the key concepts that climbers encounter is the idea of a “pitch. Finding a belay partner in a gym? I'm looking to get back into climbing after a long hiatus from the sport. c) and want to start getting into climbing multipitch outdoors. Extra Climbing Gear You’ll need two anchor kits for a multi-pitch route. Maybe try climbing a few 3/4-pitch climbs as a three and get your systems nailed before trying your next Alpine-scale route? Also: invest in half-ropes. I dunno if there is any proven statistic or ratio, but I would not want to belay with that much of a difference. I’ve been seeing more people bringing up followers on multi pitch routes using grigri‘s from above, i. One tug just doesn't seem clear enough. I generally stay within 50 lbs of my climbing partners. Just at ground level) for single pitch routes. aqubp jqyjhh omglpezg vyfkbu kez clf uggnatf lfinnbo euvte mlootw